Chilkoot Trail
Reviews & References

Entertainer, Historian, Naturalist, Master at what he does, Cory was always helpful with a kind word and encouragement for us and everyone on the Trail.  The best of the trip however was the fact my husband enjoyed himself and that was an unpredictable gift. By the end of the Chilkoot Trail he was telling everyone we met, “If you plan to hike the Chilkoot in style call Packer Expeditions.”

Thanks to all at the Mountain Shop, Tim, Wade, Cory, Joshua, Kip, everyone who made our trip so great.  Thanks for the great weather, too.

Sincerely,

Elizabeth and Reig

Regards,

Jon, Saskatoon SK

And so it was that a week ago today, with four companions ages 53-62, I reached the summit of the Chilkoot Pass. The last time I’d strapped on a pack was in 1972 and my most recent tent camping experience was the two month excursion that took us to Alaska in 1976. Living in Juneau had somehow dampened my desire for camping and backpacking – between the mud, mosquitoes and mere thought of bears lurking in the shadows, it seemed sensible to transition to a cabin or boat to acquire the wilderness experience. But the story of the miners’ 1896-99 rush to the Klondike goldfields was legend and hiking the historic 33-mile trail was something I had always expected to do.

What made Kathy’s offer hard to resist was the fact we’d be accompanied by a “Sherpa” to carry the cooking equipment, fuel, food and first aid kit. This left the ladies laden with only their tents, sleeping bags and personal gear – between 25-30 lbs. each. Tim Bourcy’s Packer Expeditions in Skagway provided the guide service, every element customized to our needs and desires. Our Sherpa/guide, Kip, even cooked dinner for us every night and had the hot water ready every morning.

Everything about the trip was diverse – the weather, scenery, terrain and hikers on the trail. The first two days brought basic Southeast summer weather – dry but cool and turning to drizzle by the end of the second day. Heavy rain set in that evening and continued through the night. We managed – because as Kathy reminded us – when you are outdoors in Alaska, there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing.

We pulled on our rainpants, struck our tents in the downpour and were trudging along the muddy trail by 7:00 am. Rain and snow melt had swollen the creeks and streams, only a few of which had rudimentary bridges. We rock-hopped across several more, some deeper and scarier than others. By noon of that third and longest day the rain cleared.

About the time we had climbed above the tree line we were met by two additional “thunder bucks” from Packer who took our tents to lighten our loads before the really hard part began. Soon we arrived at the “Scales” where in 1898 at the base of the pass the Canadian Mounties brought scales to weigh the supplies of those heading for the goldfields. To enter Canada, each person was required to have 2,000 lbs. of provisions, clothing and equipment. From the Scales we began the climb up the “Golden Stairs” to gain the final 1,000 feet of elevation. It’s an all-fours, half-mile scramble up big boulders at a 45 percent grade. There’s no trail – just orange plastic poles to guide you up to the foggy, misty, magnificent summit.

Just a few feet before reaching the 3,700 foot summit (the border of the U.S and Canada) is a commemorative plaque erected at the site in 1968. It reads: “In 1897 Klondike stampeders by the thousands funneled over this ancient Indian trail enduring incredible deprivations and hardships. Their tenacious spirit dominating all obstacles continues to inspire pioneers venturing north to the future.”

It was close to 4:00 pm when we were greeted by the Canadian warden, Christine, who welcomed us into her cozy cabin at the summit, her kettles brimming with boiling water for our tea, broth or hot chocolate. There were toasts, snacks, photographs and the necessary visits to the outhouse before beginning our descent across the barren Alpine landscape. Crossing a glacier, and more snow than I expected in early July, we hiked along the shores of beautiful blue lakes before arriving at aptly named “Happy Camp” around 9:00 pm. The “thunder bucks” had charged ahead to pitch the tents so by the time we ate dinner, the rain-soaked tents had dried out.

Day 4 was a dry and leisurely 8.5 mile trek to Bare Loon Lake while the final four-mile stretch on Day 5 to Bennett Lake was reminiscent of hiking in sunny southern California.

Parks Canada allows only 50 people per day to traverse the summit and we met many of them in campground warm-up shelters along the way – families, groups, couples, and even a few solitary hikers – from Whitehorse, Australia, Switzerland, Germany, Michigan, Manitoba, Anchorage, Juneau and Skagway – sharing snacks, bandaids, stories and finally at Bennett the satisfaction and exhilaration of success.

While there is no shortage of spectacular scenery in Alaska, the Chilkoot Trail provides one of the best opportunities to see it all – meadows, forests, lakes, glaciers, gold rush artifacts, wildflowers and alpine terrain. For those who need or enjoy an excuse to get in shape, the Chilkoot is a wonderful motivator. My six week investment in serious uphill hikes prior to the trip provided a payoff that included no blisters, sore muscles or stiff joints. (Okay, we took plenty of Advil…)

Our final few hours in Bennett were spent exploring the abandoned town and dining on beef stew and apple pie in the White Pass & Yukon Route depot. Shortly after the train arrived, we loaded our backpacks in the box car and climbed aboard to return to Skagway on the same narrow gauge railroad that rendered the Chilkoot Trail obsolete in 1899.

“I was up on vacation, got drunk in a bar, and woke up with a job,” is how he explains becoming a cook at the Red Onion Saloon and later a National Park Service guide on the Chilkoot Trail.

That was in 1989. The Colorado native has been in Alaska ever since. Now, as President of Packer Expeditions, Ltd., and The Mountain Shop, Bourcy has become someone you must see if you’re planning to hike the Chilkoot Trail. He started the company in 1992 with his friend Carlin “Buckwheat” Donahue, and in 1998 they opened The Mountain Shop, “a kind of climbing, pedaling, backpacking outdoors shop, a small version of REI. We do sales and rentals in winter and summer.”

The Mountain Shop and Packer Expeditions is the place to get outfitted for any hiking trip in the area. The staff is friendly, knowledgeable and skilled. In addition, they have a great reputation in the community. They’ll answer any and all questions about your trip and your hiking needs. They have maps and ideas for specific places you should see on the trail. That’s why the BBC chose Packer Expeditions for a news feature about hiking the trail.

Here is The Mountain Shop’s online store where you can buy local items for sale and here is Packer Expeditions online store where you can book a locally-guided day hike during your next visit to Skagway.

Bourcy himself was practically meant to live in Skagway. The setting reminds him of Colorado — “pretty laid back, lots of opportunities, nice people and beautiful surroundings.” He has never regretted his decision to stay in Alaska, although some winters make him wonder.

“This winter was as cold and nasty as it’s ever been,” he said. “I question my decision sometimes but I don’t regret it. My wife and I raised kids here. It’s a place that’s near and dear to my heart. It’s a special place, and I’ve been able to enjoy running a business here for 26 years.”

Bourcy’s depiction of his arrival in Skagway reflects a droll sensibility that’s also present in the name of his company. Packer Expeditions is named for Alfred Packer, a prospector who wound up murdering and cannibalizing his companions after getting stranded during an ill-fated attempt to cross the Colorado mountains in the harsh winter of 1874.

“He was a gentleman who as a guide tried to cross the Rockies with five other men during the Gold Rush,” Bourcy explains. “They got stranded in a cave and he ate his clients. He was later convicted for it. So I guess the name is the product of a warped sense of humor.”

While Bourcy may be a bit puckish, he is dead serious when he talks about the dazzling and difficult nature of hiking the Chilkoot Trail. He describes the rugged 33-mile pathway as a “beautiful, unique coastal rainforest that goes from sea-level to alpine and then to boreal forest. Every part of it is gorgeous.”

What To Know Before You Go

The Chilkoot Trail is the first 33 miles of a 450-mile trail leading to the gold fields near Dawson City in northwest Canada. The 450-mile trail is, he said, “a pretty epic journey” and he has hiked the 33-mile section “14 or 15 times.”

“The whole trail is beautiful,” he said. “My favorite part of the trail is from the summit to Deep Lake. It’s an Alpine hike where the views are beautiful, lots of little tarns (small mountain lakes) and rivers and streams. It’s stunning.”

Hundreds of people hike the trail every year, but in spite of its beauty, it can be treacherous if you’re not prepared. Bourcy said it is critical to have the right equipment for the trek.

First, he said, have a “decent number of hiking socks” that are wool, not cotton. In addition, he said waterproof hiking boots that are broken in and offer ankle support are critical. Wear pants, not shorts, he said.

“Proper rain gear is also important — Southeast Alaska is a rain forest so it can get pretty wet — but no ponchos,” he said. “Make sure you have decent base layers to insulate you because the trail can be quite wet and you’ll spend quite a bit of time in the Alpine area, where you’re really exposed to the elements. In 33 miles you go through numerous different eco-systems, and each of them is unique.

“Preparing for the heat and the cold is also important. On a really nice day, the scales (rocky patches of the trail) can get scorching hot. Or it could be raining sideways. You have to be prepared for both.”

He suggests bringing sunglasses, a baseball cap, an insulated jacket and a rain shell. It’s good to have extra shirts and pairs of pants. If you’re camping along the trail, bring a tent appropriate for the environment and a sleeping bag rated for the varying temperatures along the trail.

And don’t forget your passport, since the trail goes through Canada.

“It’s also good to be in decent shape,” he said. “It’s rocky and a pretty rugged trail. The better shape you’re in, the better and more enjoyable the trip is.

Here’s great local Chilkoot Trail advice from Packer and a good packing list for your hike.

Bourcy’s Packer Expeditions, Ltd., has led some interesting clients through the trail, including Alaska Sen. Lisa Murkowski and the BBC film crew.

Bourcy said the business has a lot of cruise-based clientele, and that a day-trip from a cruise ship can give visitors a brief look at the trail. Bourcy has some advice for the day trippers.

“You aren’t going to see a good chunk of the trail, but if you take the train you can go to Bennett Lake and spend a couple hours exploring. It’s a pretty spot,” he said. “The other thing you can do is go to Skagway, take the shuttle and spend the day hiking. You can probably get to Finnegan’s Point and back safely.”

“There are lots of ways to get a taste of it, but ultimately you need several days to really take it all in.”